Products in this Video:

Video Overview:

OK, so it's been awhile since we've released anything on this "Unassembled" long block build. Almost immediately after this engine was finished, Sam got started on the 2234cc EMPI Engine Battle Build which was a whole fiasco from the hurried schedule, to the engine injecting a nut and punching a whole in a piston. Follow that with the tear down and the current rebuild....but we're getting away from the point of why we're here. We actually had the idea of doing an aftermarket engine tin video back in early 2020, but just never got around to it, until now! Well, then...but the footage has been sitting awaiting other projects.

So, here we are, or were anyway, beginning the completion of the EMPI Unassembled 1600cc Long Block Engine. Sam covers the process of test fitting all of the aftermarket engine tin, and the massaging (OK...hammering, cutting, grinding, trimming) that are needed to get the tin to fit tightly. A lot of additional work is needed on the fan shroud which is above what would be required on an original case since the "Unassembled" long block kit comes with an aluminum case which is thicker than the original magnesium unit.

Fan shroud aside, almost every piece of tin short of the doghouse exit tin will need some sort of work to get fit properly. The more original tin you have in place, the less work you'll have to do. Unfortunately, that is just the nature of aftermarket parts, there is a reason why most shops will pre-build their projects before body work, paint and final assembly. So this is why Sam installs all of the engine tin before mounting other engine components. Almost every piece of tin that gets installed, is pulled off for additional work. Often times, multiple times, and even once one piece is fit, more work will be needed once the next piece is installed.

By the end, Sam has most every piece (there are some pieces of tin that can't be bolted up to an engine on the stand) modified and fit, well. More importantly he covers the processes that will enable you to get your engine tin fit in place to your engine. Most importantly, is to get these steps done before your engine tin is painted, powder coated, chromed, etc. Get the tin fit properly first, then you can work on making it pretty! We can't tell you the number of comments we got when we first finished the assembly of the 1800cc stroker engine Sam built for his Super Beetle way back in 2019/2020. People were shocked and couldn't believe that we would fully assemble and run the engine with "unpainted" engine tin. That engine was later disassembled down to the long block and all of the engine tin was painted to match the car.

With all that being said, or typed....follow along, enjoy and see that aftermarket tin can fit well, just not as well as German, but it will do the job! Oh, and that fan shroud that Sam spent so much time fitting? It, the alternator, and fan are the same ones that got destroyed when the fan came apart at 7800 rpm on the dyno on the 2234cc EMPI Engine Battle Engine.

Video Transcript:

Hi, I’m Sam with JBugs.com, and we’ve got all this aftermarket engine tin fitted to this aftermarket engine case. Not an easy job, but it can be done. Stay tuned while I show you how.

We’re going to get started by turning this unassembled long block into a turnkey engine—start it, run it, and break it in. Since it’s a brand-new engine, we’ll need to run it through a proper cam break-in, but we’ll cover those steps when we get there.

Before I start grinding and cutting anything, I want to seal off some of the openings in the engine. I’ll begin with the spark plugs, probably tape off the intake ports, install the oil cooler, and maybe drop the distributor in—just enough to keep debris from getting into the engine.

We’ve got some stock replacement NGK plugs, BR6HS. They come pre-gapped; that cardboard sleeve is there to protect the tip. One important detail: the resistor cap needs to be removed or the plug won’t fit properly. We’ll take that off before installing the plugs.

Before installing the spark plugs, I want to apply some anti-seize since we’re threading steel into aluminum. That’ll help prevent them from locking in place later. I printed off a torque spec sheet from our website so I’ve got everything handy—spark plugs at 22 ft-lbs, oil cooler hardware, Hoover bit fasteners, and so on.

Next, I’ll rinse the oil cooler passages with brake cleaner, set the seals in place, and mount the cooler. Then I’ll install the Hoover bit, which helps prevent cooling air from escaping underneath and ensures it’s directed where it needs to go.

While installing the oil cooler hardware, I noticed one of the nuts stripped—turns out it was the nut, not the stud. I don’t have a replacement handy, so I’ll secure the cooler temporarily and continue with the rest of the setup for now.

With the oil cooler loosely in place, I’ll install the distributor clamp and drop the distributor in. We’re using oil designed for pushrod, flat-tappet engines—high in zinc content—since that’s critical for proper break-in. It doesn’t matter which brand you use, as long as it has adequate zinc.

With the distributor installed, we can confirm number-one top dead center. Next is the oil pressure switch, which threads in dry with a tapered fit to seal.

Now we can move on to modifying the engine tin. The aftermarket tin doesn’t line up perfectly with the aftermarket case, so it’s a process of trimming, grinding, and test-fitting. We’ll notch areas where needed, open holes slightly, and keep checking fitment until everything sits properly.

After test-fitting the pulley and confirming clearance, we’ll continue trimming the tin so the fan shroud can sit down correctly. Once that looks good, I’ll assemble the fan, backing plate, and alternator, then mount everything to verify alignment before finalizing any cuts.

We’re using a 35 mm-wide fan for the doghouse shroud. After installing the hub and shimming the fan, I’ll check for wobble and noise. Everything spins smoothly, so we’re good to proceed.

With the alternator strapped in place, we can see where additional clearancing is needed along the bottom edges of the tin. It’s a repeated process: trim, fit, check, and adjust until the shroud and tin settle into position.

The doghouse oil cooler area required additional trimming around the cooler and cylinder head. Some reshaping with a hammer and punch helped close gaps and improve fitment. While it’s not as precise as original factory tin, the goal is proper sealing and airflow—and we’re getting there.

Next, we install the deflector tins and heater channel pieces. Again, it’s a matter of bending, trimming, and adjusting until everything lines up. Original tin usually fits much better, but when every piece is aftermarket, each one needs some degree of massaging.

With all the screws loosely installed, we make final adjustments before tightening everything down. It’s much easier to do this work with the engine out of the car; doing it in the vehicle is possible, but far more difficult.

The Hoover bit, front engine tin, and heater channels will be finalized later. Since this engine will be used primarily for bench testing—running carbs, alternators, distributors, and other components—it’ll live on the stand for now, so some tin pieces will remain off temporarily.

At this point, all the main engine tin has been fitted. Is it as perfect as original factory tin? No. But it works, it seals properly, and it’ll do the job.

That’s exactly why I fitted all the tin before installing the intake and other components—so I could trim, grind, and adjust everything with full access, ensuring every bolt and fastener could be installed and most gaps eliminated.

As we look around the engine now, everything fits well. No major gaps around the sides or underneath, the alternator spins freely, and nothing is contacting the fan shroud. Everything is functioning as it should.

With the engine tin fitted, we’re ready to move on to building the rest of the engine—up to the air cleaner and the point where we can finally start it. But that’ll be in another video.

In the meantime, thanks for watching—and stay tuned.