VW Dash Switch Testing - Ignition Switch:

Video Transcript:

Hi! Sam here with JBugs.com We're going to go over testing some of the electrical components and switches for our car before we install them along with a new wiring harness. Overview In this video, we're going to cover testing a new ignition switch before we install it in our car. We had to replace our original switch that had been cut and spliced into numerous times. Like in our previous videos, we're going to test it just the same so you all can see the process if you needed to test yours. Wiring Our 1971 ignition switch is a one year only item but there are three contacts on it that are the same for all VW air-cooled models. Some switches will have wire terminals, others will have built in wires like ours here. But they all have a number 30 terminal for the battery input which in our case is a thick red wire. They will also have a 50 terminal which on our switch is a black and red wire. They will have a 15 or 54 terminal which is a [solid] black wire on our switch. Looking closely at the back of our switch, you can actually see the numbers next to the terminals that the wires are attached to. As we have a 1971, we also have an X terminal that he had addressed in our headlight switch video. This black and yellow wire connects to our headlight switch. Most VW ignition switches for 1971 and later models will have an X terminal. This allows the headlights so turn on only once the key is turned on. Additionally, we have two other wires, a brown and a grey one, which are used for the ignition buzzer. That is that little sound that reminds you that you left your key in the ignition when it's at the off position and the door is open. VW started using a buzzer as early as 1968 in some models. The brown wire attaches to the S terminal and actually connects to a small metal tab inside the switch that activates when the key slides in place. This would provide a ground signal for the door buzzer system. They grey wire attaches to the P terminal and only has power at the off position, providing power for the door buzzer system. We'll use the flat blade screwdriver from our pocket knife to turn the switch on and off. [We] start by checking that the off, on , and spring loaded start positions on the switch work properly. Testing Then, we hook up one lead of our continuity tester, which is set to indicate with an audible beep, to the thick red battery input wire to act as power in and then set the wire to the side. We make sure our ignition switch is turned off and as we check, we have power at the grey wire. Once the ignition switch is turned on, we no longer have power at the grey wire. There is no power at the red and black starter wire. We do have power at the black and yellow X terminal wire. We also have power at the black 15/54 coil wire. There is no power at the brown wire and never should be as it is a ground wire. Next, we'll connect the loose lead to the red and black starter wire. We turn the ignition switch to the start position and we have power at the wire. We turn the switch off and back on again to [check] and with that, we know the switch is good. We'll finish by showing the contact for the brown ground wire by attaching the test lead to it. Then, the other lead is inserted into the switch and when it contacts the metal tab inside, we have a connection for the door buzzer. We'll be cutting off the grey and brown wires, from our switch, before it's installed.