JBugs Video Series

1600cc Engine Build Series - Part 2 - Top End Assembly:

Video Overview:

Sam picks up right where we left our short block and builds the top end of our unassembled 1600cc engine. While he was hoping to leave the mistakes from the prior video behind, it seems that one more, well two more things actually, got overlooked while building the top end. Before the push rod tubes were installed, the cylinder deflect tin should have been installed! So after removing the heads for a moment to fix that mistake and install the tin at both sides, the long block finally gets assembled all the way out to the valve covers. Follow along and watch the steps Sam takes, and the mistakes he makes while building this all new, EMPI Unassembled Long Block 1600cc engine.

EMPI's Stock 1600cc Engine Kit comes with everything you'll need to build your own Type 1, 2 or 3 VW long block. The engine kit includes a new aluminum Universal engine case, a 69mm 4140 Chromoly Crankshaft, forged stock connecting rods, a stock camshaft, dual port cylinder heads, chromoly pushrods, solid shaft 1.1:1 rockers with swivel ball adjusters, a 26mm Schadek Oil Pump, chromoly head studs, Mahle Rod Bearings, Silverline Main Bearings, Cam Bearings, a complete Elring Engine Gasket Kit (although ours was missing the sump plate cap nut sealing washers), 12 Volt Flywheel, valve covers and bales, and most all the hardware needed to assembly your new 1600cc VW long block engine.

A few extra pieces will be needed to complete the engine, such as flywheel shims (available in a kit here - https://www.jbugs.com/type-1-1300-160...) but you'll use only 3 pieces to set the crankshaft end play. We also used some additional rocker shaft shims to get our rocker assemblies set up correctly - https://www.jbugs.com/product/4058.html - Rocker Shaft Shims. Our engine gasket kit was missing the sump plate cap nut sealing washers, but that is not typical, that was Elring's mistake in packaging the gasket kit.

Video Transcript:

0:00 all right yesterday kicked my 0:08 butt or rather should I say this engine kicked my butt let me just come out and 0:15 say it I am not a professional engine builder by any means I've only Built a couple of short blocks um 0:22 and whether or not my head was just in the wrong space yesterday or otherwise between getting the connecting rods 0:28 flip-flopped around and having a problem with that saddle bearing dropping and then misaligning the dowel pins on the 0:34 main bearings this thing just kicked my butt take that as a lesson to you 0:39 guys make sure you're double-checking and make sure that 0:46 everything is as it should be uh and make sure you've got you know a good head space cuz if once you start getting 0:52 flustered things just kind of go downhill from there um but either way 0:58 it's assembled now we're at top dead center number one everything's spinning properly it's a little hard with all 1:04 this assembly Lube on here but there we go everything's spinning like it 1:12 should timing gears properly installed everything on the short block is ready to go I am going to go through double 1:18 check the deck height we're going to CC the heads just so we can check what the compression will be uh adjust if needed 1:26 and then we can go ahead and get this engine assembled we're going to work on cylinder number three but 1:34 because these engine case Hales have a slightly different step 1:42 here and here I don't know if that's 1:47 just because it's aluminum or there different castings left to right but we've got a 1:54 step here on this side that is not on this side so I am just going 2:01 to mock up two cylinders number one and number 2:07 three uh with the Pistons to check our deck height on these two 2:12 cylinders then we'll CC our heads and we'll get our compression ratio set so 2:18 that point I've got to get some cylinders out so looking at our head studs here 2:25 we've got nine long studs three medium medum length studs and four short studs 2:33 um so we're going to have eight head studs per head four long studs go across 2:40 the bottom on number three because number three is deep studded it's going to get 2:47 another long stud and the opposite side will get a medium stud on numbers one 2:53 and two the outsides will get medium studs and then the inner two uppers are 2:58 all going to be short St studs so that's why there are nine three and four on our 3:05 studs we're going to get those thread it in and get started on 3:17 that all right so this is our one and two so these are going to 3:25 go two short two medium 3:44 and again our long one we'll go right 3:49 here medium short short all right good good good good good 3:58 good good crank shaft at 90° which means one and three are all the way out at top 4:05 dead center even though that's the only one that would be firing technically at this point we are going 4:11 to completely remove our piston and 4:17 cylinder notice our Rings here we've 4:23 got top ring and medium ring top ring has slight 4:30 bevel just that ever so slight bevel M this one is 4:36 square so that's the way we're going to reinstall them but first we're going to take them off oh and the the red and the green butt 4:53 up all right that Arrow tells us that that points to the flywheel not that it matters at this 5:00 point cuz we're just doing this for a mockup right now but when the installation time does come that's where 5:06 it wants to go all 5:21 right all right so that is our top dead 5:28 center 90 5:33 de right there now we need to measure how much Gap we've got right 5:44 here some fuer gauges now ideally you would bolt this 5:49 thing down nice and snug but this isn't a high performance 5:55 build we're not concerned with 6:01 Perfection we just want to give an idea 15 it's like 6:08 60,000 still apparently more than 60 40 50 60 70 6:15 70,000 I just can't add up any more shims so basically 80,000 more or 6:24 less is Our Deck height or negative deck height so we got 80,000 of an inch 6:30 between the top of the cylinder and the top of the cylinder wall I can already 6:37 tell you that as it sits we're not going to run any cylinder shims to increase 6:44 that uh because with this amount of Volume Plus the amount of volume in the 6:49 cylinder head we're not going to be a high compression engine if anything you would actually end up decking these uh 6:57 and lowering it to increase compression question with that being said let's CC 7:03 ahead normally we would want a disc that fits nice and snugly inside of 7:09 there get this guy as flat as possible and then using 7:14 milliliters just fill up this chamber with water until it's basically flat so 7:21 we start with 60 cc's of water that's been 7:27 tinted and we fill up the 7:40 cup 5 6 7 and basically 7:45 eight with that little bit of Remnant here so we'll call that eight from 60 7:51 will give us basically 52 CC combustion chamber so we'll take that 7:57 number so four 855 stroke 69 Ms deck height 8:05 80,000 combustion chamers 52 CC's so our engine compression ratio is 8:11 going to be 7.2 to1 we have four cylinders that's a given and this is our engine displacement 1585 CC's or 97 8:20 cubic in yay Volkswagen lots of horsepower so 8:25 anyway that's how you check your compression ratio because the the way these cases 8:31 are machined down differently on each side I want to make sure we still have about the same otherwise our engine 8:38 would be running weirdly with half of it having more compression than the 8:44 other I also want to get this wrist pin in there 8:50 [Music] 8:57 but just one of those things things we got to deal with with new 9:05 engines there we go a little a little 9:11 lubricant just because it's tight doesn't mean it's not going to 9:21 go got to say that's the first there we 9:26 go top dead center on 9:35 inches and just a little bit less deck height that's just the minute 9:42 differences in this surface right here that's such a minimal difference 9:47 and this engine's low compression already and it's not like we're going to be turbocharging this thing and running it to 7,000 9:54 RPM so it's not a big deal but that just shows that because of that difference in 10:00 the surface right here versus the other side that you can come up with two different deck height measurements uh if 10:06 you're only checking one cylinder always check number three because number three is going to run the hottest because of the way that the oil cooler sits and the 10:14 way that the engine is designed always check your compression ratio on number three set number three at whatever you 10:20 want the engine to be and everything else should be pretty close but with that being said if we 10:28 look at the we can see a whole bunch of metal shavings on here so we're going to take these and rinse them and wash them 10:36 and then we will start by assembling these putting the piston rings in and 10:42 whatnot and so forth even our piston you 10:49 [Music] seeing all those nice little oil rings coming out of there or 10:58 those 11:08 and 11:14 immediately a good bath WD40 because you can see those things 11:20 are starting to rust already start by reinstalling our piston 11:28 rings onto the the one piston that we disassembled to check our deck height our Oil ring we definitely don't want 11:35 our Oil ring down in the oil flywheel that way that side 11:41 up going set our oil rings one goes 11:47 below come on there we go I'm going to set 11:52 one horizontal on our wrist pin here the other one's going to be 180° out over 11:58 here says top and 12:04 remember the square one was our middle ring and just like before we're going to 12:11 go 180° 12:19 opposite there we go that's that side and now that guy's ready to go back 12:29 all these guys obviously were already because we never took them [Music] 12:35 out install that 12:41 [Music] there pop that in 12:47 there and then there we go just like to make sure 12:54 that it's nice and happy I like to 12:59 use Aviation sewant across the bottom edge 13:11 [Music] 13:17 here there we go here we 13:23 go beautiful now we'll put that top dead center 13:29 and do it all again just the way they're sit on the wrist pin there we 13:35 go now we going to do our push rod tubes and we can set our cylinder head on just 13:41 cuz you never know what kind of factory these things were [Music] 13:51 in one 2 3 13:57 4 more of my favorite 14:08 juice I'll grab that one 14:20 later there we go and make certain that all of our seams are sitting up we twisty 14:30 twisty until they're all good to 14:35 go especially the ones in the 14:43 head all right just give them a little drop this will just 14:50 help our nuts slide down on top of 14:56 them when they're getting tightened down and I guess from here on out wouldn't be 15:02 a bad idea to tape up all of our holes Etc so we don't get anything into 15:08 our 15:15 engine all right now we're going to go through and torque torque torque torque torque toror T torque get my Tor go 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 at 15:27 7 foot- lbs 15:33 [Music] 15:38 check che che check 15:44 check check check 15:50 check check all right now we're going to bump it up to 18t lbs now we're going to 15:57 go one two 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 so x and x 16:05 [Music] 16:10 basically with that this side is ready to button up for safety's sake these are 16:17 very clean no gaskets but we are going to lock it 16:26 up there we go that side's button up ready to go go do the other 16:32 side all right this side is just a uh duplicate of the other side so I'm 16:38 going to do this while uh the regular cameraman's out having 16:47 lunch rookie mistake on my part I forgot to put in the flect 16:54 plate those supposed to go in before these guys go in in and I forgot them this isn't my uh my 17:03 best engine build ever but again this shows you guys what 17:09 not to do so now that I spent some time and went through and put our deflect tin 17:15 in make sure you put that in before you put your push rods in like I said my mind's not been in the 17:22 game on this engine apparently but either way learn from my mistakes 17:29 put your deflect tin in first I've never put one of these things together but just because I have like on 17:37 this engine doesn't mean I'm actually going to do it right like I haven't done on this engine so far so let's uh cut these guys open and see 17:45 what's going on let's give it a wh lots of rocker 17:53 arms hey more rocker stand shims I don't believe those are are supposed to be 18:01 bent one two 18:09 three no I'm not I'm not going to I have enough it's easier said than 18:15 done I say and along those lines I might as 18:20 well put in some rocker studs anti- 18:26 caeses steel to aluminum antise a please drop us some motor 18:44 [Music] oils those guys seem really tight here and here so guess what we're 18:53 going to have to switch out that thin shim with that thick shim and that thin shim with that thick shim Actually I 19:00 don't even know if that's going to 19:08 work hey by joob I think we've got it let's just way too much side 19:18 play and everything actually seems fairly well lined up on their valve 19:25 stems so to get this guy moved over I'm going to put a smaller 19:30 shim here hopefully I've got 19:36 some loose shims so we're going to try to move everything that 19:42 way on this assembly here in between and then 19:48 we'll work on the outside 19:57 geometry let's see 20:08 5,000 no I think 4,000 this the smallest shim in my 20:14 set so we've got 4,000 play but not 5,000 apparently now we've 20:22 got 5,000 okay I can force 7,000 in 20:29 and that is as close as we can get those guys to being Square over the top of our valve and I 20:36 can probably demonstrate this a little [Music] 20:43 bit with some screws don't drop those inside the push 20:51 rods that would be very bad so if we look right here we want to have as much 20:57 contact area right here as we 21:03 can this one is closer to the center of the valve than this one is but this is as 21:09 far over as we can get this adjuster so this we'll have to do but at least we're actually getting contact on the 21:17 valve and not the 21:27 side yeah nice good contact 21:35 there and 21:41 5000 7,000 Max that feels really good very little side play so this 21:48 side's good now we can work on this [Music] 21:57 side 22:08 5000 good and snug so we're going to call this side 22:14 good to go this is the point where we' normally put in our push rods and then bolt down our rocker 22:21 assembly on top of that and for sake of this video I will do that however when it comes time to 22:27 first start this car we're going to pull off our rocker assembly so that we don't have our push 22:34 rods pushing down on our lifters pushing down on the cam while we're trying to build oil pressure we're going to relieve the pressure off of the cam 22:41 until we have oil pressure at which point then we'll put our valves or I'm sorry then we'll put our push rods 22:47 in then we'll bolt on The Rocker assemblies and then we will go through and crank the engine over for its first 22:54 time this product has not been cleaned for final usage thorough cleaning of 23:00 machine debris and cutting oil is required before use so we're going to do that 23:05 now and note that these are chromal steel push 23:13 rods so we're going to set our valve lash at zero on these not 23:19 [Music] 6000 you you're in a pinch you can use 23:24 these as a reable straw yeah yeah I wouldn't recommend it but you 23:36 [Music] could and just 23:41 to dissipate all this water inside throw a little 23:48 WD40 a little bit more 23:56 oil and we're at bottom dead center currently 24:02 so as we spin our engine we will probably see these valves 24:09 move a little bit or at least these rockers 24:19 [Music] 24:26 anyway [Music] 24:32 couple of those guys dabs of oil dabs of 24:39 oil oil on [Music] 24:47 there dabs of oil 15 foot- 24:53 lbs here 24:59 that's 15 right [Music] 25:04 there make sure that all of our rods are in 25:18 place all right let's see if I can crank this engine over a little bit see if we can watch our valves 25:26 work might be easy said and done cuz I don't have a grip on this just going to 25:32 install our gland nut intake 25:39 open intake Open Exhaust 25:45 Open Exhaust open 25:55 andt so now should 26:01 be really close to top dead center with our screws all the way 26:09 out more or 26:14 less yeah we're all the way out and those guys should both be 26:21 loose since we don't have any adjustment we'll put some stand shims 26:28 underneath that will lift our rocker assembly further away so that these will 26:34 actually be able to be adjusted and we can set our 26:44 valves rocker stand 26:56 shims [Music] 27:09 all 27:17 right all right so we're going to watch this 27:24 guy intake come on 27:33 all right so bottom dead center is right 27:40 there and we should be able to pull that screw with number 27:47 four at top dead center we've got play 27:53 there number three at top head Center 27:58 we're basically looking for zero lash which means I can turn the push rod 28:05 but I can't move [Music] 28:12 it turn and if I tighten it anymore I can't 28:17 turn it so that is this valve set or valves 28:27 both those valves are set so now with our valves 28:38 set good and snug still spins no 28:45 play ooo that might be a little bit more that might me some thicker shims 28:52 right there you would hear that when the engine's running 28:59 so we're going to take care of that right now and I'm going to move this guy 29:05 that way thicken up some shims 29:10 and we'll call that one 29:25 good all right that valves set ready to Jet and given that this is a brand new 29:31 engine not any part on this thing has ever been run there will be some wearin 29:37 or some Breakin as you call it once everything's run for that first Breakin 29:43 period we're going to go through and change the oil chances are we're going to have to go back and adjust our valves 29:48 cuz there's Coatings all over everything from the Machining process and the hardening process Etc that coating is 29:55 going to wear off on High contact points or high wear contact points like our 30:00 push rods our lifters um so we'll change the oil probably have to go back and set 30:06 the valves all right so this side's 30:12 done we can do all that on the other side 30:17 [Music] 30:26 now [Music] 30:46 [Music] 30:56 the [Music] 31:03 I've been cranking this engine over using this guy but we don't have a flywheel seal in 31:12 yet and I can't put in or rather I can't tighten down the flywheel yet because we 31:20 don't have the flywheel shims fwh is going to need an O-ring just use a 31:25 little V R1 remember we did clean this when we set got our endplay measurement Way Back 31:33 2 days ago so that's clean ready to rock a little bit more oil just because why 31:39 not little bit of oil little bit of gasa hinch around our outside perimeter our 31:46 Delux flywheel seal in Star War tool always makes life 31:56 easy 32:04 you don't want to bottom it out you just want to bring it just to flush slash just past 32:12 flush like that that's ready to go now we can oil that inside 32:21 lip and we can set our flywheel on and we can put our gland nut in place 32:27 with the washer but we can't actually tighten it and set the end play until 32:33 the shims arrive and guess what we're out of stock I'm sorry they're on 32:40 order but they're not here yet so we're just going to set that 32:45 in take a little grease put on our pilot 32:54 bearing and this will hang out 33:01 here while we build the rest of this engine which is going to be fun I don't 33:08 care if a little paper gets burnt up and sent out the tail pipe I do care if metal gets in there though St stud stud 33:16 stud stud stud stud what do we do whenever we're putting steel into aluminum and I 33:22 sees if you please 33:42 now for those of you that like a pretty engine you can take some brake cleaner and go through and spray off all of the 33:50 run-ins on our Aviation 33:55 sealant [Music] 34:01 there we go nice and pretty all right so there we have 34:08 it five boxes of Parts two one assembled long block with a 34:14 couple gaskets bolts and pieces and parts left over and yes with this kit 34:20 there will be Parts left over we have a number of gaskets that we're not going to be using there's a lot of duplicate 34:27 Hardware uh we're going to need some extra parts as well uh like we obviously 34:32 needed some extra shims for our rocker assemblies we're obviously going to need 34:37 some shims for our flywheel but other than that that was 34:43 everything that we needed to build this engine in five boxes not bad did we learn anything 34:51 along the way well I did but again as I've said numerous times throughout this series I'm not a a professional engine 34:58 builder I made a couple mistakes maybe quite a few mistakes flipping the 35:04 connecting rods around twice was pretty stupid on my part well once and then back and then forth but either way that 35:10 was pretty stupid not putting in the cylinder deflect tin rookie mistake but 35:16 when it comes to engines I really am a rookie this is the second engine that I've built by myself as far as a 35:22 complete short block to Long block I've been for many many engine builds I've 35:28 done plenty of top ends or plenty but you know maybe 10 top ends as far as new pistons and cylinders and heads and 35:35 whatnot so I've done that probably 10 plus times so I am by no means an 35:40 expert I know enough to get in trouble obviously but hopefully you guys took my 35:47 experience here building this to give you an idea of what you would need to do 35:52 to build this engine in your garage or your shop 35:58 and hopefully this gives you the confidence to let you know that guess what it can be done even when you make 36:04 mistakes so with that I hope you guys enjoyed I hope you guys have learned 36:09 something and keep watching because couple more videos we're going 36:15 to get this thing fully built into a complete running engine and we're going to run it right here on the stand so 36:21 stay tuned for that and thanks for watching guys