Products in this Video:

Video Overview:

We've had one of our employee's cars sitting in our shop for awhile now and as it is the midst of the summer here in Phoenix, it 's not like he would have been driving it regularly. We had some free time in between other projects and videos and now that fall is just around the corner we figure we might as well get some work done on it. So first things first, he wanted the stock original carburetor replaced and as it had just sprung a fuel leak, it seemed like the timing was perfect! Follow along with our tech Sam as he goes through swapping out and then tuning a stock replacement carburetor.

Video Transcript:

This 1971 student video's got itself an old worn out 34PICT3 carburetor, and apparently it sprung a league. Hi, I'm Sam with jbugs.com. We're going to swap out this old and now leaking 34PICT3 carburetor for one of our new 34PICT3 reproduction cards. The hoses that are connected to the oil bath air cleaner are removed, followed by the air cleaner. Then the electrical connections at the choke and the idle solenoid are disconnected, throttle cable is disconnected, and the nuts are run threaded from the base of the manifold so the carburetor can be removed. So this is our 34PICT3 replacement carburetor. This is something that we worked on with the manufacturer, developing to our specifications, and we're very, very happy with it. It still has a factory eye Auto solenoid, Factory choke set up for 12 volts. It does have a threaded fuel Inlet, so there's a lot less prone to having those fuel lines pull out, as is common with the original Distributors. Still has our vacuum advance, our vacuum recharge, as well as our vacuum signal for auto stick carburetors that need that additional vacuum Port there.

So the carb comes with a 55 Idle Jet and a 127.5 main jet, and then it comes with a 0.70 airjet. Additionally, it comes with a larger 137.5 Main Jet and a 60 Idle Jet for those that have higher amounts of ethanol in their fuel, like 10 or more. You're probably going to want to swap out to these Jets, just because with more ethanol you have less Fuel, and fuel is actually what we're burning. So we are definitely start it, run it, see how it responds first, and then go from there based on your tuning and how much you're going to have to pull out your uh your fuel screw. Studs just thread in, they come loose in the Box just so they don't poke through the foam Packaging. We've, of course, got our base gasket, and then we've got flange serrated nuts so you don't have to hold that little washer on while you're trying to thread that on the bottom side of the intake manifold. So it's got a nice serrated, flanged edge, so there's no need for a washer or a lock washer after the fact. Pre-assembled, so to speak, we're gonna go put this on the car. Our new carburetor is installed, reversing those same steps.

It's nothing horribly dirty, but there's some debris in there. This is more or less how they used to be. Oil baths are a very simple and efficient air cleaner, so air comes in through here, gets swished around through here, and then it actually has to go through that and through here before it goes inside this little guy right here and out there, and then down there. So it's a somewhat complicated, but very simple and effective, way of cleaning the air. All right, I'm going to add some oils, fill up the bottom till it's just about level with the line, and we'll note that the vent on the back side that would have gone to the fan shroud has already been plugged. And with that, our carburetor is installed. We've gone through, verified that everything's connected tight, wire is not going to short out. We're gonna crank it over, get some fuel back into that float Bowl, and start her up and see how she runs out of the box.

So we started her up, let it run for a few moments, make sure that we've got no fuel leaking. We're going to start her up again, let the choke warm up, and then we'll go back and double check that our accelerator arm is set correctly. Just doing some quick acceleration, we noticed a little bit of hesitation, so we're going to check our air and our fuel screws. We'll show you guys how to do that in a moment, but for now we're just going to start her up, let her warm. So now that the car is mostly warmed up, make sure that the chokes fully opened, and see we got a little bit of play right there, so we're going to turn until it just contacts there nice and solid, and then we're gonna go one quarter turn more. So right now we're right here, we're going to turn that screw one quarter turn. We've got our fast idle screw set, we're going to set our bypass screw, or truly our idle screw, to 900 RPM. We're going to come back and work on the air control screw to get the highest smooth idle, and then we're going to go back and reset our idle screw at 900 RPM. Thank you.

All right, so with that, our carburetors installed and tuned. We've gone over all the steps to show you guys how to do that. However, it feels like after doing a quick uh drive around the building here a couple times, it doesn't feel like our distributor is advancing properly, so I'm gonna go through and show you guys how to set the timing on a 009, and that'll be in our next video. Thanks for watching.