JBugs Video Series
Standard Beetle Speaker Kick Panel Install:
Video Overview:
Classic cars and music are a combination that will never go out of style. So, when it comes to adding a modern stereo to your Vintage VW Beetle, making sure you get the best possible installation is always nice. Our tech Sam has done his fair share of stereo installations and has learned a few things along the way. Follow along as he shows the best method he's found to installing Standard Beetle Speaker Kick Panels.
Installing a stereo in a Vintage VW Bug, especially a stereo system with an amplifier, requires planning, fitting, and lots of back and forth fitment. By the end though, with proper planning and execution, your Standard 1954 through 1977 VW Beetle can have front speakers in the kick panels that look like they were installed from the factory, not as an afterthought!
Video Transcript:
Hi, I'm Sam with jbugs.com and I'm going
to go over one of the best ways I found
to install speaker kick panels in a
standard Beetle.
Now, speaker kick panels are our
preferred method of installing speakers
in the front of a Volkswagen Beetle. A
lot of times people will actually cut
holes in door panels to install
speakers. That really isn't ideal. Water
is designed to drain through your doors.
That's why you'll actually see a plastic
vapor barrier behind the door panels.
And additionally, if you look closely
underneath the bottom of your door,
there are drain holes. Those holes are
there so that any water that gets into
the door can drain out of the door. And
because of that, unless you have a
weatherproof speaker, uh you really
don't want your speakers getting wet.
Another reason we don't like installing
speakers indoors is because there is no
real way of running wires from the front
apillar. Now, you can do it, and I've
seen it done many times. People will
actually just drill a hole next to the
check rod and then run the wires uh into
the check rod hole, or they'll drill
completely new holes and just run the
wires through there. But again, not
ideal as you're opening and closing the
doors. There's a good chance those wires
could get pinched. So, in our opinion,
speaker kick panels are the way to go.
One of the common questions we get about
the speaker kick panels is, does it
affect leg room? Well, no, actually it
doesn't. I still have all the room I
would have had from the factory. That's
still the factory metal down there where
my foot's touching. And the kick panel
doesn't even sit on the floor. It sits
on top of the heater channel, or in this
case, above the heater channel. So, I
put together this video with a couple of
key tricks that I've learned to get a
super clean installation of the speaker
kick panels. A couple of tools that
might make the job easier. A drill for
opening the hole for or jigsaw to cut
the hole for your speakers and your
speaker kick panels. Sharp knife or
razor blade for cutting the carpet once
the panels are installed. Pair of
scissors, especially if you're running a
loop carpet so you don't get any snags.
And a power drill for driving in
selftapping screws and mounting the
speakers. Depending on your particular
speakers, your car, whether or not
you're going with carpet, etc. We'll
also determine any additional tools you
might need. But again, these are just a
couple of the key tools that I use.
Nathan, what did you do here on the kick
panels?
Cut some holes with a jigsaw, drilled a
hole, and then went boink.
We used a speaker drill for reference on
where we wanted to make certain we had
room for that. And then we took the
round template to cut the hole. Did you
test fit the speakers in these holes?
Yes.
And they fit perfectly?
Yes.
So, we can get that stuff prepped and
ready to go there. because of the way
that the speaker kick panels would
normally sit. They are essentially just
reverse molds of this area here. And
with that, when you pull that panel out,
you kind of the standard piece of carpet
that would sit there ends up leaving the
top edge of the kick panel exposed. We
would normally set the speaker in and
then move it far enough back to the
point where the magnet isn't going to
contact the body back behind. Now, we
got a little bit of space there. That's
fine. and we just got it taped here and
taped there. And then we'd come in with
our carpet and line it along the back
edge of the door jamb. That's option
one. And that's a normal standard
installation. However, we have a 3D
printer and that gives us the option to
do option two. Because we have a 3D
printer, we can actually make a spacer
ring to hold the speaker off the kick
panel just a little bit. Give us the
space off the back that we need. And the
nice thing is is we eliminate a lot of
the gap that would have been up the top
here. Now, we still run into the issue
of not totally covering the top edge of
the kick panel here. So, we can just
take a strip of carpet and glue it
across the top, wrap it over before we
install the kick panel. So, what we'll
end up doing is cut some of this strip
off the back carpet here that's just
overlaying off of the back of our rear
seat and use it to cover that top edge
there. And that will eliminate that big
top gap where you would normally have
this panel spaced off where you'd be
able to put your hands in the backside
like we would have done like that.
You don't want stuff falling back there.
So, I think we're going to go option
two, put that panel all the way forward
and that way this edge will be much less
of a gap. And with the carpet tied in
place there and that screwed in place
here and here, I think that's going to
be the way we're going to go. We'll just
have to have Nathan print up some spacer
rings on his 3D printer. Over here,
we've got a scrap piece of carpet glued
on top of this. I already went through
and taped this up in place and put a
little mark on here above where the
other carpet overlaid. So, this is going
to get covered up. Most of what is going
to be our speaker grill. We want to make
certain that it just looks finished. So,
Nate, you want to go set that one in
place?
Yeah.
And over here, let's see. We've got that
piece just literally marked up in place,
but nice and tight up against the body.
Nice and tight up against the body.
Virtually no gap. And we're not even
screwed in or just taped in right now.
Just temporarily. We've got our wire
sitting out here. We do have some gap
here. We'll have to pull that in with
the selftapping screw. We'll just mount
it here to here. And once that's in
place, again, that carpet will just kind
of sit right up there covering all that.
And then our speaker will sit somewhere
in that area right there. and everything
up on both sides will be nice and tucked
away. In lie of making a 3D printed
spacer, a lot of guys will actually make
uh speaker rings out of MDF and uh
either upholster them or paint them or
otherwise. All right, Nathan, what do we
got? Holes. We've got our four holes
drilled with our spring tension clips.
You grab a pair of pliers and you crimp
them down and then you slide them over
the holes. Now, we do have these four
holes drilled offset from our other four
holes so that we can put our speaker
ring and mount it to the kick panel. And
then we can mount the speakers to the
speaker spacer
and not run into the same screws that we
held the spacer ring in place with. I'm
getting smarter in my old age, thinking
ahead,
not just having a giant gap on the top
of the thing.
My Super Beetle, that stereo came out
really well. I've been looking at that a
lot just to figure out how stuff goes
together.
We're going to get these mounted in the
car now.
Hopefully,
at least we're going to get this one
mounted in the car and then we'll do the
same thing on the other panel and get it
mounted in there.
And that little opening on the bottom
just for the wires.
In all the other times I've ever done
it, I put the panel down super low, but
in this particular case, we're doing
differently. I normally put the kick
panels down at the bottom and have it
down at the top. Also note that we've
got two red marks here. I used those and
a measuring tape to get us square for
our speakers. So, our speaker is
parallel with the ground for proper
product placement.
Yes.
All right. Well, there we go.
Perfect. Now, we can put a speaker.
All fancy like.
Yeah.
You know what? Almost don't even need a
spacer ring. How did that happen?
We were smart,
I guess.
I don't know.
Well, look at that.
Uh, sorry. I guess we're not 3D printing
spacer rings.
Well, we'll see how the other side comes
out.
Well, especially after the carpet goes
on, too, you know.
Yeah,
it's going to be even better
at this point. We could move our tabs to
here
and up into there and to there
and put the grill and the speaker on.
And
I'm going to do the same thing I did
right here over there.
And hopefully we have the same luck over
here.
Yep. We'll find out.
Sounds good.
We got that speaker sitting over there
with pretty much no gap behind it. this
one with no gap except for like right
there.
Little bit at the front.
The next step at this point is work on
the carpet. Nathan's working on getting
that piece in. We're going to get these
pieces in and we'll be back. So, we're
just getting these pieces mocked up here
and here. And we've decided to go with
this piece overlapping this piece as
opposed to that piece overlapping that
piece. This way.
Yeah. This ends here and then this goes
down like that.
Yeah, makes more sense.
Yeah. So, I'm going to start by getting
this piece glued in here first with this
piece peeled back. And that side is now
in. It looks really good.
So, now we can go through and cut this
opening out. I'm going to go through and
cut this seam perfectly straight just
like I did on that one. And right there,
so that those two edges actually butt up
together and
instead of being overlapped
like this, cuz then it gets like big and
bulky. So if you trim it straight and
you just butt up one side next to
another, the surge is a nice trim line
and not that big old chunky.
So pull that back. Lay that over. Give
ourselves a nice little line. And this
is just a dry erase marker. We'll just
butt up that edge right there. And it
should be good to go. Just like that. A
nice smooth transition without a big
overlap like that. Perfect. Now I'm just
taking a sharp razor blade and a utility
knife and just being cautious not to
snag the carpet. We want to slice it.
You don't want to get a run in a carpet.
Don't pull it
cuz if you pull it,
you got to that
run in your carpet. Not fun. And then I
just use a pair of flush cuts to go
ahead and dig out for our speaker
mounting screws.
Yeah.
And that's for just all that.
There we go. Nathan's going to put the
speakers in. You need to be very
careful, especially on that, cuz if you
grab a snag of carpet, it's going to
yank it. So,
yeah,
be very cautious. I would start them all
by hand.
All right, on to the next one.
Nathan, did you plug the speaker in?
Yes, I did.
All right,
that seemed like it grabbed.
All right, they all grabbed. Put them
all in. Good.
Good.
Awesome. That looks pretty darn good,
I'd say.
I know. It's super nice having this
extra piece right here, which I've just
that little piece of scrapped carpet
adds
from underneath the back of our seat.
Just that little piece of carpet right
there at the top makes the biggest
difference.
Yep. Now, we got to move on to the other
side. And then the other three pieces
and then the front and then that and
then have to glue those in. So, you can
start to work on that and I will start
to work on this.
Okay. Nice. Wow.
I'm weird
with that.
Wow. Kick.
We've got the full interior
installed. Nathan, looks weird.
And this view here will give you an idea
of what the speakers and kick panels
will look like from the driver's seat.
With that, I'm Sam
and I'm Nate.
Later, guys.