With all the wires in
our new harness installed, and the battery hooked up. We can begin testing all
of our switches, lights, and electrical components. Note that the knobs are
screwed in onto the switches, and we have not installed the switches to the dash.
This will make troubleshooting much easier if any problems do exist.
After installing new
8amp fuses at all of the terminals in the fuse box, turn the key on. With the
headlight switch on at the first position, we can see the front running lights
are on. Pulling the switch all the way back, turns on our low beams.
Reaching inside the car,
pulling back on our turn signal lever, turns on the high beams. Pulling the
lever back again, toggles the headlights, back to the low. Of course pushing
the headlight switch all the way in, turns off the lights.
We can test the wipers
by turning the wiper knob clockwise to the first position, which operates speed one on the motor. Turning the knob clockwise one more time, to the second
position, operates speed two. After turning the knob counter-clockwise all the
way, the wipers turn off and the wipers return to the parked position.
Pulling the emergency
flasher switch operates the four-way flashers. The turn signals and the switch
knob are all flashing as they should. Pushing the knob back in, turns the
Then we can test the
left, and right turn signals.
Reaching inside and
pushing the horn button does nothing. So we can test the horn itself by pulling
the brown wire from the left front headlight harness, and touching it to
ground. Doing that operates the horn, so it is getting power but not getting a
good ground from the horn button. The horn and steering column ground is a
common problem that we will troubleshoot later.
At the rear of the car,
we can check the brake lights by pressing the brake pedal. The left brake light
comes on, but the right does not so that is something we will have to
troubleshoot in a moment as well.
Turning on the turn
signals we have left, and right turn signals.
Shifting the transmission
into reverse, turns on both reverse lights. Pulling the headlight switch to the
first position, turns on the rear running lights, but the license light does
not turn on. Looking at the rear license light assembly we can see that it has
been swapped for a later model plastic housing which explains why the light
doesn't work, it doesn't have a ground. We use a test lead to ground out the
lens screw to the license light mounting screw and the light turns on. We will
have a run a ground wire to the license light holder to make the light work. We
do that with a short ground lead with a small ring terminal on one side, and
with the license light lens and bulb holder removed from the assembly, feed the
opposite end of the wire through the wiring sleeve at the assembly.
Then reinstall the bulb
holder and lens. The ring terminal will mount behind the license light bulb
holder, and will be held in place with one of the lens screws. Feed the wire
through the license light assembly seal to the underside of the deck lid. From
there we can install another ring terminal on the end of the wire, and attach
it to the center license light assembly mounting stud under the nut. With the
ground lead run, the license light bulb now works. Taking a look at the
rear right taillight lens, we pull off the lens and take a look at the brake
With an assistant
pressing the brake pedal again, we wiggle the bulb in the housing and see that
the bulb is working, when it is pushed against the metal housing. Pull out the
bulb and unbolt the metal bulb holder from the taillight base. On the back side
of the bulb socket, we use a small flat head screwdriver, and bend back the
metal tangs of the base that contact the outside of the bulb. With the bulb
back in the socket we have our assistant press the brake pedal again, and the
brake light bulb is working so we can reinstall the bulb holder and the
Inside the car we can
verify that the dome light works. In our case the up position works the dome
light off of the door switches. With both doors open and pressing in the
switches by hand, the light goes off. Releasing either switch turns the light
on the dome light. Moving the dome light switch to the center position turns
the light off. Moving the dome light switch to the bottom, the dome light turns
on as it is in manual position.
At this point everything
but the horn button is working properly, so we can disconnect the battery, and
reinstall all the dash switches and brake light warning indicator. When
installing the switches note that each switch has a notch on the threaded
portion that sits against the dash. The dash sheet metal wall should have a
small indentation that lines up with the notch to keep the switches from
After the switches are
installed, disconnect the three wires from the brake light warning switch and
feed them through the back side of the dash. The black wire goes to the 15
terminal, the brown to the 31 and the red to the K terminal. Then the switch
can be pressed back in place on the dash. Now that all the switches are
installed on the dash, reconnect the battery. We can turn the key on and we see
both the oil pressure and the generator light bulb come on. Operating the turn
signals, the left and right turn signals are working and the indicator bulb on
the dash is working as well. Turning the wiper switch on we have low speed and
high speed and the wipers go back to the parked position. Pulling the headlight
knob all the way out we can see the speedometer illumination is on, (but hard
to see in the video) Pulling back on the turn signal lever we can see the high
beam indicator on the speedometer turn on. Pulling back on the lever again the
indicator goes out and we can actually hear the relay toggling between the low
and the high beams.
Also note that looking
at the speedometer the fuel gauge has come up from empty, to just under 1/4
tank. Which mean the sending unit and gas gauge are working as well.
Lastly we can pull out
the emergency hazard switch and see that the emergency flashers are working. With
everything but the horn working we can start the car up, to make sure that the
starter is hooked up correctly, and verify the dash warning lights go out,
which they do. At this point the glove box can go back into place, the battery
cables can be tightened, and the seats can be put back in place. Short of the horn, which
we will troubleshoot in our next video as that can be a lengthy procedure, is