We start the brake
bleeding process with the car up on jack stands at all four wheels, so that we can
access the brake bleeder valve. We've only pulled the wheels off for visual
assistance; you do not need to do that at home.
In the trunk, we go
through and make sure that the brake fluid reservoir is full, before starting
the brake bleeding process. We start the brake bleeding process off at the
right rear, the farthest away from the master cylinder.
We've put together a
simple brake fluid catcher, nothing more than a plastic water bottle with a
piece of hose inserted through a little hole we drilled at the top of the cap. We
have a hose running down into the bottle, it's best to use a clear hose but
anything that fits the bleeder valve is fine. You want to have a small amount
of brake fluid in the bottle before you begin. Making sure that the hose is
actually submerged in the fluid. This will help you to see any air bubbles that
may be present in the line when bleeding your brakes.
With the bottle in place
underneath the wheel, and the hose on the bleeder valve screw, use a wrench, in
this case it is going to be a 7millimeter, to open and close the screw. We're going to have an
assistant pump the brake pedal about five or six times, while we have the screw
tightened. We will tell them to hold on the pedal and while they are
holding the pedal down, we will open or unscrew the valve about one quarter turn.
It is very important that your assistant keeps the pedal down, whenever this
bleeder valve is open. With the pedal down and the bleeder valve open, leave
the bleeder valve open for a couple of seconds, then tighten and have your
assistant pump the brake pedal again.
You want to do roughly
10 of these pump and hold cycles to make certain that there isn't any air in
the right rear line before moving to the left rear wheel. When you're bleeding
the brakes, keep an eye on the fluid that's coming into the bottle, especially
while the valve is open. If there's any air in the lines, you will see bubbles
coming from the hose. If there isn't any air, you should see the fluid level in
the bottle rise slightly. In our case we didn't change the hydraulic lines in
the rear so we're not going to see much air in the rear lines. Because there is
air in the front lines, the master cylinder cannot build much pressure, so were
not going to see a bunch of fluid rising drastically. The main thing is we're
making sure that there is no air in the rear line.
When switching between
wheels, you want to make certain to top off the brake fluid reservoir with
fluid. At the left rear we're going to repeat the brake bleeding process again,
and again we're not going to see any air bubbles. We should see the fluid rise
just ever so slightly when the valve is open. With the left rear brake line bled,
it's time to top off the brake fluid reservoir once again, then were going to
move to the front right wheel.
Since we have replaced
the front brake hoses and wheel cylinders on the front right, we're going to see a lot
of air at first, when bleeding the brakes here. Keep doing the pump and hold
cycles until you no longer see any air bubbles coming out of the line and you
have a steady stream of fluid coming out with each opening of the valve. It's
at the front right where your assistant might mention that the brake pedal
actually feels like it's doing some work, giving them some resistance while
they are pumping the brakes.
With all the air bled
from the front right, top off the brake fluid reservoir again and bleed the
front left brake line. With the left bled, make certain to top off the brake
fluid reservoir and put the cap back on. At this point the pedal should be nice
and firm. This cars braking system is now completely rebuilt and ready to stop
the car safely.