Hello Sam here with
JBugs.com. In this video we are going to remove the engine from a 1971 VW Type
3 Squareback. The original fuel injection has been removed, along with the
heater boxes, so this removal will be slightly different than a car with all
the original equipment. Just the same this will give you a general idea of the
process of removing a Type 3 engine.
We start by
disconnecting the negative battery cable. Then head to the rear to open the
rear hatch and engine lid. An 8mm wrench is used to loosen the barrel nut bolt and
remove the accelerator cable from the carburetor linkage. While the wrench is
handy you can remove the nuts on the generator DF and D positive electrical
terminals and remove the wires there.
With a flat head
screwdriver the ground wire of the generator can now be removed, and the fuel
hose can be disconnected and plugged off to prevent fuel leaking. Then the rear
air intake bellows clamp can be removed, and the bellows can be pulled off the
engine intake and tucked into the body.
At the coil the power
wire from the main harness is disconnected, along with the wire going to the
reverse light switch. Then remove the oil pressure switch wire, and all the
engine wiring can be pulled up and cleared of the engine. If you aren't familiar
with the engine wiring, make sure to label the wires before you remove them.
The engine dipstick
needs to be pulled out so the dipstick tube can be removed by loosening the
clamp with a Phillips screwdriver. With a 17mm wrench the starter bolt nut is removed.
So that we can access the opposite side bolt we remove the front engine tin. The
tin here wasn't bolted in, but will typically require a flathead screwdriver at
the left and right rear corners of the engine. Now the upper left engine bolt
can be removed with a 3/8" drive ratchet, and a 17 mm socket along with
the wrench. We will later remove the air cleaners in the meantime they will
help prevent anything from falling into the engine while were still working on
Now the rear of the car
can be jacked up and set on jack stands. Another jack stand is set underneath
the transmission and a ratchet strap is attached to the left and right shock
towers and routed underneath the transmission to support it later. Now
underneath the engine, the lower left and right engine nuts are removed with a
3/8" drive ratchet, and a 17mm socket. Then the left and right rear engine
cross brake bracket nuts and bolts are removed, with a 3/8" drive ratchet,
13mm socket and a 13mm wrench. From the top of the engine the cross brace to
body mounts can be removed with the same 13mm ratchet and wrench.
Back under the engine,
if you a using a rolling engine dolly, remove the heater channels with a
flathead screwdriver. Ours were only bolted to the case and not to the cylinder
shrouds so this was a little bit easier. Now a jack can be placed under the
engine sump, we had to use a wooden
block as our jack couldn't lift quite high enough. An assistant can reach into
the engine compartment from above and pull the engine back until it is clear of
the transmission. When the engine is clear of the transmission it can be
lowered all the way down, and in our case, once it's in the dolly we lift the
engine up slightly, remove the wooden block and set the engine into the dolly.
The jacks slid out, and
if the back of the car is high enough, the engine can be rolled out clear of
the car. Otherwise jack the car up high enough, and roll the engine out. With
the engine now clear of the car the job is done. The car can be jacked up, jack
stands removed, and the car set down. Our engine is now out. Next up for our
Type 3 series, we will be removing the engine tin accessories, and in the
meantime stop by JBugs.com for all your vintage Volkswagen needs.