JBugs Video Series

VW Type 3 Engine Tin Disassembly:

Video Overview:

Sometimes, in order to diagnose or repair your engine troubles, you will need to tear it all the way down to the long block. Follow along as we walk you through how to properly remove the engine tin and accessories so that you may access the key components of your engine. This is a great DIY project to keep your Volkswagen running smoothly and safely.

Video Tips:

Tools you will need:

10 mm Wrench
13mm Wrench
17mm Wrench
Flat Head Screwdrivers
3/8 Drive Ratchet
10mm Socket
13mm Socket
17mm Socket
30mm Socket
1/2 Drive Ratchet
Pulley Puller
Side Cutters

Video Transcript:

Hi i'm Sam with JBugs.com. With the engine from our 1971 Volkswagen Type 3 Squareback pulled out, it's time to tear it down to the long block so we can diagnose the issue and repair the engine. Immediately, we can see the first error that may have caused some of the problems. As we have mentioned before, the original fuel injection, stock muffler, and heater boxes have been replaced with dual carbs, a header system and J-tubes. The heater ducts from the fan shroud were not blocked off when the heater boxes were removed. This caused the engine to overheat, as the air will follow the path of least resistance. Instead of the air being pushed through the cylinders, heads, and oil cooler, most of it was leaving through the ducts and not cooling the engine.


We start the disassembly by removing the nuts at both the J-tubes, loosening the header clamps, and removing the J-tubes. The header nuts at both heads are removed, so we can pull off the header and muffler assembly. Next the carburetors and linkage can be pulled off by un-threading the nuts at the intake manifolds at both heads. With the left, or 3 /4 side, carb off, we can see a problem with the number three cylinder. The intake track is covered in carbon which means the intake valve has been opened allowing exhaust gasses to build up on the intake.


Continuing with the tear down, we remove the coil, followed by the engine intake cover bolts. The generator belt is worn so we cut it and removed the intake cover. The generator strap is unbolted so the generator can be removed. [The] distributor clamp nut is pulled off the engine case and the distributor and clamp are pulled out. The multiple sheet metal screws are removed from the cylinder shrouds so they can be pulled off and now the oil cooler can be removed.


Next, a flywheel lock is bolted to the case and the crank pulley nut is removed so that the crank pulley can be pulled off. The coil bracket and the front fan shroud bolts can be unbolted so the front fan shroud cover can be removed. A pulley puller is used to pull off the crankshaft fan, and the rear fan shroud can be unbolted from the oil filler tower and engine. The left and right cylinder deflect tins can be pulled off and the rear engine cross brace can be unbolted from the engine case. The oil filler tower is unbolted from the case, and pulled up while the breather tube is pulled off the dipstick tube.


With that, all the engine tin accessories are removed. In our next video we will get the engine mounted to a stand so we can get it off the ground and we will pull the cylinder heads and see what needs to be done to get the engine running back in the car and back on the road again. Thanks for watching and remember to stop by JBugs.com the next time you need parts or accessories for your vintage VW.