JBugs Video Series

1971 VW Super Beetle - Engine Installation:

Video Overview:

We’re just about back where we began in our Super Beetle Restoration Series and finally installing our rebuilt motor back in our car. This series began by dropping the engine only to find a dropped valve, a hole in a piston and too much crankshaft end play. Now almost 3 years later, our 1971 Super Beetle has undergone a complete nut and bolt body off restoration and is almost complete. Follow along as we install the rebuilt, now 1800cc stroker engine back in place and see what hiccups we run into.

Video Tips:

Tools used in this video:
Wheel Chocks
Jack Stands
Rolling Engine Dolly
17mm Wrench
13mm Wrench
10mm Wrench
3/8” Drive Ratchet
3/8” Extensions
3/8” Drive 17mm Socket
3/8” Drive 13mm Socket
3/8” Drive 10mm Socket
Linesman Pliers
8mm Wrench
6mm Allen Wrench
2mm Allen Wrench
#2 Philips Screwdriver
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Wire Strippers
Wire Crimping Pliers
Heat Gun

Other Parts Used:
Heat & Glue Butt Splices
Open Barrel Terminal Ends
Inline ATC Fuse Holder

Video Transcript:

Hi! I'm Sam with JBugs.com and our engine is finally back where it belongs.
Our 1971 Super Beetle has come a long way since we first picked it up in 2017
In January of 2018, we dropped the engine as it couldn't turn over all the way.
That was the first video in this series, and here at the 88th video, the engine is finally getting reinstalled.
We start by chalking the front wheels of the car and we jack up the rear of the car high enough to roll the engine in from the side.
Then, the car is lowered down over the engine and set on jack stands.
We roll our jack over to the engine and jack it up into the engine compartment a bit to check the clearance.
We err on the side of caution and decide to remove the air cleaner, carburetor, alternator pulley, belt, and tensioner, to prevent any damage to them or the rear apron.
The engine is jacked up into the engine compartment carefully and once the engine is high enough, we guide the accelerator cable into the engine cable tube.
The engine is jacked up further, cautiously, and once the lower engine studs are lined up with the transmission, the engine is lifted up by hand and pushed into place.
Rocking the engine a bit can help as can turning the crank over to make sure the splines on the clutch are lined up with the transmission.
Underneath the car, washers and nuts are installed onto the lower engine studs and tightened down.
Then, the upper left engine bolt is installed through the transmission, threaded into the engine, and tightened.
The fuel hose from the chassis to the engine is trimmed and installed onto the engine fuel line.
Then the heater box tubes are installed onto the heater boxes and the heater cables are attached to the heater boxes.
We check that the operation of the heater lever inside the car operates the boxes, then we can install the starter D bolt.
Since we don't have a fender in the way, we can reach under the car with one hand to install the bolt through the starter, transmission, and engine.
Then inside the engine compartment, behind the fan shroud, a washer and nut can be threaded on and tightened down.
The alternator pulley, belt, and tensioner are installed.
Then fan shroud hoses are installed onto the heater boxes.
The rear engine tin is set in place over the hoses, along with the pulley cover, the heat riser tins, and our custom made tin hole cover.
All the tin screws are threaded in and once they're all in place, they're all tightened down.
Fresh air hose seals are slid in place over the fresh air hoses and the hoses are installed onto the fan shroud.
Then, we start laying out the wiring.
The license plate harness is tucked out of the way.
The reverse light power wire is run from the right side towards the coil.
The main wiring harness is routed towards the coil and alternator.
And the purple oil temp sensor wire, we ran with our main harness, is routed across the engine to the right side, following the reverse light wire.
Under the car, we terminate the wire and plug it into the sensor in the oil pressure relief valve.
The carburetor is bolted to the manifold, the air cleaner base is installed, and the breather hose is attached to the oil filler.
The air cleaner is installed and the vacuum hose from the distributor and the fuel hose from the fuel pump are installed onto the carb.
We slide a post cover boot over the large red cable at the alternator and attach the cable to the alternator post.
We cut off the spade end of the green cable, install a wire boot, crimp on a quarter inch terminal end, and plug the wire into the back terminal on the alternator.
Since we aren't running an original carburetor, the loose choke and idle solenoid wire from our wiring harness is tossed
and we run our own cable from the choke, around the back of the carburetor, to the positive side of the coil.
The coil circuit is not fused so make sure that the wire is routed safely.
The green wire we ran with our main wiring harness is cut to length, terminated, and attached to the negative side of the coil.
As is the black wire from our electronic ignition.
The red wire from the electronic ignition is attached to the positive side of the coil.
Ring terminals are crimped onto the blue oil pressure gauge wire we ran with out main harness and the blue/green wire from the main harness.
And they're attached to the oil pressure sensor.
The reverse light power wire is cut, and connected to a sealed in-line ATC fuse holder, with a shrink and glue butt splice.
We install a 7.5 amp fuse, crimp on a terminal end, and attach the wire, along with the black wire from the main harness, to the positive side of the coil.
We still need to reattach our oil filter and hoses before we can add oil to the engine but we'll get to that when we install the fenders and bumpers.
Until then, thanks for watching!
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