JBugs Video Series

VW Type 3 Dual Port Cylinder Head Replacement:

Video Overview:

Now that we have identified the issue with our engine, we can replace the faulty cylinder head with a new one. Follow along as we walk you through how to replace all the components of the cylinder head. This is a simple DIY project that you can do in house if you find yourself having issues with your Type 3 engine.

Video Tips:

Tools you will need:

Flathead Screwdriver
3/8 Drive Ratchet
3/8 Drive Torque Wrench
3/8 Extension
10mm Socket
13mm Socket
15mm Socket
17mm Socket
17mm Wrench

Video Transcript:

Hello, Sam here with JBugs.com. Now that our Type 3 engine has been stripped down to a long block, we are going to get it mounted to an engine stand so we can pull the suspect head, and see what the problem is. Keep in mind that this is not being planned as a full engine teardown, nor is this a full restoration project. This car is a daily driver, so we won't be fully detailing the engine and tin. We're just looking to get the engine up and running while cleaning it up a bit and fixing some oil leaks. The owner of the car is on a budget like most of us so we will only be replacing what is necessary, this will not be a complete engine teardown.


To get up and off the ground first, we mount the engine to the engine stand bracket. The bracket mounts to one side of the engine case, not the bottom two studs. We use a couple of extra sockets to fit over the stud and bolt as spacers before putting on washers and nuts. With the engine secured to the bracket, the engine is lifted up with the help of some assistants, and slid into the collar on the engine stand.


The oil sump plate is pulled off to drain the oil, along with the oil filler dip stick tube. With the oil drained, the sump place screen is pulled off.


Now we can start digging into the 3/4 cylinder head by popping off the valve cover bale and pulling off the valve cover and gasket. The rocker assembly nuts are removed from the head, and the rocker assembly is pulled off. All four push rods can be pulled out and then all eight cylinder head nuts are un-threaded. Now the cylinder head can be pulled off. The push rods tubes are not going to reused so they are tossed along with the old seals, which are pulled off the engine case.


With the bad cylinder head off we get to see what problems the over heading head caused. The number four cylinder valves are a tan-ish brown color and the valves are sitting properly in their seats. The number three cylinder valves are covered in carbon and the seats and valves are sunken into the head. This meant the rocker adjusters could not fully release the valves, leaving them open partially at all times.


With the cylinder head problems confirmed and all the cylinders inspected, we are going to leave the bottom end as is and replace both cylinder heads. Despite being on a budget, what you do to one side of the engine, you must do to the other to keep it balanced.


We start reassembling the top end with new push rod tubes. After the tubes are slightly stretched at the accordion ends, new seals are installed and a thin coat of black RTB is smeared on the seals before they are set into the case.


Note that the welded seam in the tube is pointing up. The new cylinder head is set into place, after making sure the head is fully seated, then seams on the tubes are checked again to make sure that they are pointing straight up. The head washers are coated with a bit of oil and set in place at all eight head studs. Next all eight cylinder head nuts are threaded onto the studs. A torque wrench is used to tighten the nuts down.

The nuts are tightened down in two steps. The first step is to seven foot pounds in the pattern shown. The final step is to 18 foot pounds for the 8mm studs on this engine or, 23 pounds if the studs were 10mm, in the pattern shown here. The rocker assembly intake manifold and exhaust studs are threaded into the new head. New spark plugs are installed after removing the resistor caps. New Chromoly push rods are installed, followed by new rocker stand O-rings, then we set the new rocker assembly in place.


After making sure that the push rods are in place on the rocker arms. The rocker assembly nuts are threaded on and torqued down to 18 foot pounds. Then the whole process will be repeated on the other cylinder head. We will adjust the valves, reinstall the valve covers, sump plate and screen, and all the engine tin and accessories and then reinstall the engine into the car. Until then, stop by JBugs.com for all the parts and accessories you'll need for your vintage VW.